Barbara Cartlidge was born in Berlin but in 1938 she and her family escaped Germany and settled in England.
She attended Central School of Arts and Crafts (later Central St Martins) from 1957 – 1960 where she studied jewellery design. In 1959 she registered her brand and then in 1960 her breakthrough came with a solo exhibition at Heal’s in London.
In an article by Tamsin Lesley in Harper’s Bazaar in 1968 she said,
“My predominant thing is rings because I like wearing them best”. She went on to say “invariably it is the stone that decides the design I will use [just] about any stone, provided it looks exciting. I am not terribly concerned about the cost of it – if it has some sort of life, some magic, some mystique about it”.
In 1971 Barbara Cartlidge and Ralph Turner opened Electrum Gallery at 21 South Molton Street and it soon became world renowned. Not only was it the first gallery in England to show case the work of contemporary, international jewellers and designers, but it became known as the centre of artist/studio jewellery, worldwide. Cartlidge referred to it as “the brotherhood of jewellers who make modern and thought-provoking jewellery all over the world”. Her work was groundbreaking, her influence came from Scandinavian design and her jewellery was unconventional, avant-garde and stylish. In 1978 Barbara Cartlidge was appointed Freeman of the Goldsmiths Company and in 2016 Goldsmiths held an exhibition of her work.
Barbara Cartlidge pieces are held in many collections across the world. “Fairly often I make a piece of jewellery which I cannot sell because I am so attached to it – so my own personal collection increases all the time” The V&A have several of Cartlidge’s pieces in their collection, including a ring she personally gifted (Accession number: M.13-2015).
We were pleased to include a beautiful emerald and diamond ring by Barbara Cartlidge in our 16 April 2024 auction. Her pieces rarely come to auction and lot 29 offers an opportunity for collectors to add a piece reflective of her ‘modern and thought provoking’ approach to their collection.
Picture: Cartlidge family
