There has always been an allure which has drawn mankind to natural pearls, be they saltwater or freshwater, and since antiquity, civilisations have valued them for their physical, and often mystical properties. The Ancient Greeks believed they would ensure marital bliss when worn by a bride on her wedding day, while the Romans believed they could provide a long and healthy life.
Our frenzy for these natural treasures reached a true crescendo in the early 20th century, when they became the ultimate signifier of wealth and status. Such was the case in the US when, in 1917, keen to acquire the natural pearl necklace his wife had seen at Cartier, the New York financier Morton Plant exchanged the jewel for his 5th Avenue townhouse. The prestigious central Manhattan location remains Cartier’s flagship American Maison to this day.
In Scotland, the pearl has had an illustrious history, and if natural saltwater pearls are a rarity, the natural Scottish river pearl is something else indeed. It is believed that only one in every five thousand mussels found in Scottish rivers contains a pearl, and generally they are smaller than their saltwater cousins. Today the mussels (Margaritifera margaritifera) in which Scottish pearls grow are dangerously close to extinction and are rightly a protected species.
Historians have postulated that the desire for Scottish pearls was one of Julius Caesar’s incentives for his invasion of Britain in 55BC; he was known as an avid pearl collector. Indeed, the popularity of these rare specimens continued into the Victorian era, fuelled by Queen Victoria’s passion for all things Scottish. The largest Scottish river pearl ever found, the famous Kellie Pearl, is set on the Crown of Scotland which dates to the 1540s. It remains housed and on view to visitors at Edinburgh Castle today.