Andrew Grima: An 18ct gold diamond leaf brooch, 1965
£4,536
Auction: Selected Jewels from the Estate of the Late Lady Penn | Lots 1-18 | 04 December from 10am
Description
Naturalistically modelled, claw-set with a small round brilliant-cut diamond, UK hallmark, unsigned, sponsors mark HJCo
Dimensions
Length: 7.4cm
Provenance
Provenance: Select Jewels from the Estate of the Late Lady Penn
Footnote
Widely accepted as one of the most important British jewellers of the 20th century, Andrew Grima’s jewels remain sought after pieces for today’s collectors. Known for his cutting edge, often abstract style, Grima began experimenting with his leaf brooches in 1947, not long after first joining his father-in-law’s company, HJ Company, in 1946.
They were created using a complicated casting technique which HJ Company had developed; by coating the leaves in plaster of Paris he was able to capture the minute details on the surface of the leaves. This plaster casing was then placed in the incinerator, burning away the leaf to leave a vacant impression, this was later filled with gold. The newly moulded gold leaf would then be finished with a matte surface, and a single diamond ‘dew drop’ would be set on the surface.
While they may not be the most immediately identifiable of his pieces, they are quicky recognisable to connoisseurs of his work, and were an important addition to his May 1991 Retrospective at Goldsmith’s Hall, London. Lot 15, dates to 1965, and interestingly not long after that, in 1967 HRH Princess Margaret sent a piece of lichen from the Balmoral estate to Grima, who used a similar process to turn the piece into a very unique brooch, which also featured in his 1991 retrospective.
Exhibition Catalogue, Grima Retrospective, Goldsmith's Hall, London, May 1991, plates 5 & 110.