Cartier: A multi-gem and diamond floral brooch
circa 1950
Estimate: £15,000 - £20,000
Auction: 29 April 2025 from 14:00 BST
Description
The posy of flowers, one set with cushion and pear-shaped sapphires, with an old brilliant-cut diamond pistil, within an oval and circular-cut ruby stamen, the other flower set with cushion-shaped yellow sapphires, with an old brilliant-cut diamond pistil, within a circular-cut sapphire stamen, accented by pierced leaves set with old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, diamonds approx. 1.70 carats total, principal sapphires approx. 42.20 carats total, yellow sapphires approx. 22.60 carats total, signed Cartier London, length 7.3cm
The principal sapphires and yellow sapphires have been examined by GCS and a verbal assessment given that they are of Sri Lankan origin, with no indications of heating.
Footnote
The trend for large flower brooches set in yellow gold with large multi-coloured gems began in the late 1930s. The fame of these large floral brooches was undoubtedly propelled by one of the most influential jewellery style icons of the 20th century, Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor. In November 1939 the Duke of Windsor commissioned a sizable example for Simpson from Van Cleef & Arpels. Similar examples were made by Tiffany & Co., Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin and of course, by Cartier.
A near identical brooch to this one, also signed Cartier London, appeared at Christie's, Geneva Magnificent Jewels, 10 November 2015, lot 155.